Here’s an idea of what’s going on. The normal cable pulls in one direction (the indicated arrow) which rotates the latch. You need to pull in the direction of the red arrow but applying more force than the cable can.

If that doesn’t work you can tape something sturdier to the line shown, and use it as a leader to pull it through.

Once done, it’s unlatched and you should be able to open the bonnet

It’s the black arm you need to move, not the spring. The spring is just to return the arm back (when not seized)

What do you have available? Tie-wraps, or Cable tie? If you do, hook the hoop part of a key ring and tie wrap make a loop and hook the lever with the keyring, pull it at an angle slightly towards the passenger side so it doesn’t slip off (start a couple of grille holes across if that makes sense)

Don’t forget to grease the latch and refit the spring. Use the wire/cord to pull and stretch it back into place through the grille.

Well what can I say!! Yes I am woman, yes I love to be girly but I also have a love of cars and fixing them. Over the years I have done loads, from the simple service to the big major things like gearbox changes and turbos and even the head gasket. And while a few ladies are probably thinking no way am i doing a gearbox change, it’s the little things you can do will make you feel proud of yourselves.

Weekly checks include most of the fluids and tyres. The major one would be the engine oil level and that’s the dipstick, not to be confused with the person sat at the side you though. (See picture A for location) Now on this you have some notches a min and a max. Now the best way to check is to remove the dipstick give it a wipe from top to bottom and then reinsert it and pull back out again without wiping. If the level of oil it between the the notches then all is fine and nothing needs to be done. (See picture B.) If the level is below then you need to top your oil level up. This is easy to do. The filling cap is located at the top of the engine (See picture C.) unscrew the cap and pour a little oil in, best way i find it using a funnel, wait a few minutes for the oil to go through and down into the stump, and check the dipstick. If the oil level is between the notches, than jobs a good one!! If not pour a little more oil in and just keep checking the dipstick. Without oil in the engine, you run the risk of the engine seizing, meaning either new car or new engine. I have only ever know this happen to one person and that was my aunt. My dad stripped the engine down and rebuilt it for her.

The antifreeze coolant level is very easy to check (See picture A) as you can see the level through the tank itself. Mine as you can see looks low but I’m on a hill and mine is the orange/red colour this antifreeze coolant is organic acid technology (OAT). I believe the green/blue is in-organic acid technology (IAT) and I think there’s another one but not quite sureon the name. But anyway topping up is ready simple. Make sure the car is as level as possible and cold if you have just taken a run out this will be hot and can burn you when you take the cap off. Always make sure the car is cold. Unscrew the cap and fill to the maximum line or just underthe maximum on the tank. And it’s done. Simple!!! Antifreeze coolant help to stop water freezing in cold weather and helps to stop the car from overheating. Plus it helps to prevent corrosion with in the engine.

Now if you find that you are having to fill this tank up a lot. It’s possible you may have a leak. Itmaybe it’s a pipe/hose. Or it could be the water pump, radiator or as with one of my cars thehead gasket that’s gone.

It is easier to do with the fob separate from your keyring. You will need a small flatblade screwdriver to prise the case apart.

Gently prise the top of the case from the base.

Prepare your replacement battery (In this case a Duracell CR2032)

Gently ease out the old battery (In this case a Panasonic CR2032)

Insert the new battery, ensuring correct polarity of course.

Then clip the two halves of the case back together again. Job done.

Take the fob to the vehicle and press the ‘open’ button repeatedly, until the vehicle responds and locks/unlocks as before.

Remember: We can supply the batteries required. Just PM Mike Pitt on the Facebook page. Paypal accepted.

NB: I make a note of the month/year I changed the battery, at the back of the service record book.

Step Two, Bring the light down carefully and unclip the wires. They just pull off and take note as to which side is black and which is red. Also just inside there make sure the U Nuts or Spire Clips are there and haven’t broken.

Step Three. If you need to replace the clips they just push on, they might take a little hard push but they will go on. Attach the wires and screw it back in.

And there you go, it’s done. Now if the screws are rusty give them a spray with WD40 or Duck oil or and penetrating oil, you may have to repeat if they are really rusty.

Well the screen wash level is located here (See picture A) and is easy enough to fill. You canbuy the premixed or the concentrated. If let’s says you have run out you can fill a old large pop bottle up with water and a few drops of washing up liquid. Just make sure you wash the bottle out first. Now once you pop the cap on the filling tank have a look down the neck you should see a little wire filter. Some have them some don’t. It helps stops any large foreign objects from blocking the pipes. Now if you don’t already know this lever (See picture B) when pulled forward and held activates the screen wash. Mine at the moment isn’t working I believe it’s the motor that’s gone as I get a burning smell and when I replace it I will do another how to for this. Now back to filling the tank. Once you have popped the cap just pour the wash in. I tend to fill to just below the filter. And there you go screen wash tank is filled.
Also a little tip went the cold months start to come in and the cold weather I add a little bit of antifreeze to stop the water from freezing up.

Freelander 1 Pre & Facelift Models

Puddle Light Fitting Instructions.

These instructions hopefully will help guide you through fitting and wiring up puddle light to you Freelander 1.

1. Start by removing the door card from and placing carefully to one side.
2. Next remove fuse No. 14 (10A) or No. 16 on facelift models this isolates the interior lights circuit making it easier to work on.
3. Remove gently the interior front light unit, and unplug from the vehicle.

You will now have to decide whether to solder the new connections required or to use another method of your choosing. I personally would use the solder technique so the new joint is both secure and also neat. Thread a piece of twin 12v cable through the light unit from the back into the central light compartment (the largest one). Split the two cables and bare both ends by ½ a cm, it is these ends you are going to solder to either end of the central bulb fitment. Make sure you do not use excessive heat in this area as it will melt the plastic and possibly damage the bulb mounts.

1. Now remove the bayonet bulb and place to one side to be refitted later, now solder one of the wires to each end of the bulb mount,
2. Once cooled gently pull the wires back through the hole and put a cable tie on it to stop it going back inside.
3. Feed the wire along the headlining ( gently remove about an inch of it from the windscreen area in the direction you are going to the door being worked on). This can be reaffixed with a spray glue very easily later.
4. When you reach the A Pillar feed it down behind the plastics into the foot well area. You will now need to remove the panel in the foot well to expose the other end of the conduit that leads from the door to inside the car.
5. Feed the wires inside the conduit and pull through gently until you have a piece of wire that reaches the door lock area. (This is so you have enough wire to work with and will be trimmed to fit).
6. Using the drill bit provided drill a hole where you want the light to be. I positioned it approximately 5” from the outer door edge.
7. Take off the two locking rings on the puddle light and insert it in the hole you have just made, then slide the locking rings down the wire attached to the lights – but do not over tighten at this stage.
8. Now you need to join your wires from the puddle lights to the wire feeder you have just installed, this can be done by either connector or solder if you have a gas soldering iron. It does not matter which way round the wires go.
9. Now making sure the new wires do not foul any moving parts, fasten them to the door using cable ties or to the door casing using gaffer tape.
10. Repeat for the other door. You will be able at this point to use scotch lock connectors to attach the wires to the previous ones you inserted at the rear of the unit.
11. Now replace the bayonet bulb and put the central light unit back in place.
12. Insert fuse number 14 (10A) – [preface lift versions], or number 16 [-facelift versions] to put power back to the circuit being worked on.
13. You should now be able to adjust the logo which is projected on the floor from your Puddle Light. Once happy with the position tighten both locking rings fully.
14. Re attach the door cards.
15. Enjoy your new Mod you made to your Freelander.

I hope this is not too boring a read, and that it will help you, as it did me to install the 12v Puddle Lights, so no batteries to worry about changing and they look great when on.